Playa del Carmen Travel Guide

Playa del Carmen (“Playa”) is a popular vacation destination located on the coast of the Caribbean in the northeast section of the state of Quintana Roo, Mexico. Located just 40 miles south of Cancun, the city has experienced tremendous growth in the past decade and is currently Mexico’s fastest growing city (population: 70,000)

Playa began as a passenger ferry service to Cozumel. While passing through, people realized that it was a nice place to relax away from the tourist traps of Cancun, but with access to the same alabaster-white beaches, turquoise waters, gentle surf, and coral reefs. The first hotel in Playa was the Blue Parrot, which opened in 1984.

Today, Playa del Carmen has become the center of a major tourism development dubbed the “Riviera Maya”, which stretches across Cancun to Tulum. Despite the widespread construction of new roads, golf courses, massive resorts, and even a race track, Playa del Carmen resists commercialization. The city takes steps to retain its charming European villa feel, such as by an ordinance by which limits all buildings to a maximum of three stories.

Playa is a global destination for travelers the world over, with major concentrations of tourists from the U.S., France, Mexico, Argentina, Spain, and Italy. Many local residents and business owners are expatriates from these countries.

Get in

Buses can be taken directly from Cancun airport, for around $8. To get to the bus terminal, go right after exiting the main terminal and walk about 200 yards. Purchase a ticket (buying it in Pesos will save you a few dollars) right before exiting the terminal. Rental cars and one-way transfer services are also available.

Get around

Avenidas (Avenues) in Playa run parallel to the ocean. 1st Avenida is a minor street that runs close to the ocean and provides access to the beach and their hotels. All tourism in Playa centers on Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue), which is a pedestrian walkway located just one block from the beach, and lined with boutique shops, hotels, bars, and restaurants. 10th Avenida has many shops, hotels, and restaurants to choose from but is far less trafficked than 5th.

Playa is pedestrian friendly town and you can basically walk to everything. The main throughfare, 5th Ave, does not allow cars except in the early morning hours for deliveries. A bike is a fun alternative to walking, there are a number of bike rental shops at the north end of 5th Ave.

By Car

Car rentals are readily available at a number of locations at the north end of 5th Ave. Large companies, National, Hertz, etc. are convenient, as well as local agencies, which are generally less expensive. Scooters are a dangerous, but available, alternative.

By Taxi

5th Ave. ('Quinta Avenida' or '5ta Av.') is a pedestrianized street and taxis are available at various intersections along its lenghth. A taxi taken from a 'sitio' (place where taxis park) will cost a few dollars more than a taxi hailed on the street. It costs $4 to get to Playacar, and about $1.50 to get around the rest of Playa.

By Bus

Scheduled bus service to destinations in the region (e.g. Xcaret, Xel-ha, Tulum, Cancun airport, Cancun, etc.) and beyond depart from bus station at southern end of Fifth Avenue near Playacar and Ferry terminal to Cozumel.

First class ADO bus departs hourly or so for tourist destination of Xcaret, Xel-ha and Tulum - fares are in $4US range. The ADO Bus goes directly to the entrances of Xcaret and Xel-ha. ADO also runs direct service to Cancun airport from Playa Del Carmen for approximately $8US (80 pesos).

Second class local Mayab buses also leave from Fifth Avenue station. Mayab buses stop more frequently enroute and drop off alongside the highway to Tulum, requiring walking from the highway to the entrances of Xcaret or Xel-ha.

An alternative to the buses is to catch a "collectivo" van. These leave/return to a separate location in Playa Del Carmen than the bus stop. Collectivos are cheap government regulated air-conditioned vans which transport people on Hwy. 307, which runs north/south along the coast. Pick-up times for these collectivos vary, roughly every 10 minutes and pick-up is simply along the freeway, but one can get you a ride to any destination between Tulum and Cancun for as little as $6.

Organized bus tours are also available from a variety of companies, including Tours Aldebaran, that cross the Riviera Maya & Yucatan (Tulum, Cancun, Isla Mujeres, Mahahual, Ek Balam, Celestun, Rio Lagartos, Merida, Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Xcaret, Xelha, etc.).

See

• Xel-Ha is an ecological themepark or natural aquarium. Here you can swim with dolphins, see manatees, bicycle, snorkel, cliff-dive, and scuba. If you choose to scuba you will get to pet stingrays and see larger fish. This park is quite large, so bring good shoes to walk up river, you bag your dry belongings and they will be driven back to the main area. There is a buffet restaurant and free drinks as part of the park entry-fee, as well as snorkel equipment and rafts.

• Aviario Xaman-Ha is a beautiful Aviary where you will find different species, not just birds, other animal species like the butterflies, "iguanas", turtles and other small mammals. The animals and plants that live here are in their natural habitat and they live in semi-captivity. We have endemic, threaten and in extinction danger species.

Do

Quinta Avenida, also referred to in English as 5th Avenue, is the main tourist thoroughfare in Playa. It is a pedestrian only, cobblestone lined street which spans approximately 14 blocks. Along 5th Ave. you will find a variety of restaurants, bars, clubs, shopping opportunities and various services. In Playa, nearly everything starts from this street.

The best beach is Playa Tukan at the north end of town off of Calle 26. It is best to arrive early. Rent a canopy bed on the beach. Draw the canopy back and catch the rays, then pull it back again for an afternoon nap. Mamitas Beach Club has plenty of beds and great music playing during the day. Be aware that some women do go topless but this is not widely accepted by locals.

Nightlife is definitely happening in Playa del Carmen, but is not as wild as its neighbor to the north, Cancun. Typically, Playa's shops and restaurants close around 10pm, but nearly all of the clubs stay open through most of the night. A number of the best nightclubs are located on the beach. If you are interested in nightlife (dancing, drinks late until the evening/morning), then be sure to visit Blue Parrot, El Pirata, Santenera, and Hotel Deseo. The Blue Parrot had until recently a fun fire show around 9 PM some nights, but still offers beach dancing, swings at the bar, and plenty of dancing. Santenera has a beautiful roofdeck bar. Deseo also has a roofdeck bar, but it comes with beds. Very relaxing and beautiful.

Scuba diving and snorkeling is plentiful around Playa, though the reefs are off the shore require a boat to get to. All hotels have a dive shop, though many can be found on 5th Ave. Better open-water scuba diving can generally be found in Cozumel so if this is the focus of your trip it is best to stay there. Excellent snorkeling is located at Puerto Morelos, located between Playa del Carmen and Cancun, and in the lagoon at Akumal, on the way to Tulum. Several dive shops in Playa del Carmen do offer cenote diving south of town.

There are many internet cafes in Playa del Carmen, most of which also offer international phone service. Prices start at around $1 US an hour.

Cenotes are cavernous freshwater sinkholes which are found all over the Yucatan peninsula. Many of them are open to the public for swimming, diving, and exploration. Many are open, however some of them are partially underground and the caves associated with these cenotes can run for miles underground. Cenotes also vary in size with openings as little as a foot wide to as large as a small lake. The water clarity in these cenotes is often unsurpassed, often exceeding 200 feet, and makes for exceptionally good swimming. Some of the bigger cenotes are available as tourist destinations, many are locally owned, and many more still are either undiscovered or undeveloped. Entrace to the commercial cenotes is correlated to the amount of development (i.e. if there are washrooms, restaurants, showers, etc.) with fees ranging from $1 USD - $20 USD.

Tulum is approximately an hour south of Playa and most famous for its beautiful Mayan ruins which sit on a low cliff overlooking a beautiful beach and the turquoise caribbean sea.

A few miles out of Playa del Carmen one can go cenote snorkeling amongst the cat fish and stalactites, an excellent experience. One can easily get to this by hiring a scooter. There are also numerous roads through the loose jungle, all in a fairly bad condition and apparently leading no where, perhaps a discontinued government development project. The roads are however, a great place to pleasure ride a scooter, there will be very little traffic and you'll pass the cenotes on the way.

Cozumel, the large island off the coast of Playa is famous for snorkeling and scuba near the large reef system. Note that Cozumel is also a main port for Cruise ships, so can be quite busy sometimes!

Spanish language classes are available by the week at International House Maya Riviera, located on calle 14 off Avenida Quinta.

Buy

The touristy part of the city is laden with shops selling 'artesanias'. These basically sell the same products - shirts, bracelets, and souvenirs, but for varying prices depending on the mood of the shopkeeper and your haggling/seduction skills. Haggling is accepted in the less formal shops in Playa, as is the rest of the Yucatan, though it is worth remembering that if you are able to afford an international vacation your income is many times higher that than the storekeeper (most of whom struggle just to pay the very high rents). It is possible to buy both Mexican and Cuban cigars here, but Cuban cigar prices are not particularly cheap. Counterfeits are commonplace in Mexico, so due diligence in the selection of cigars is advisable. If you are young or have long hair, many shop keepers are likely to also offer you marijuana. Marijuana is illegal in Mexico, though its use is widespread amongst tourists.

There are three large supermarkets in Playa del Carmen: Wal-Mart (30 Ave with calle 8), Comercial Mexicana (30 Ave. with Constituyentes), Chedraui (Highway between Playa del Carmen and Playacar). There is also a Sam's Club (Highway in front of Playacar).

Eat

There are nearly 75 restaurants in Playa, of foods of every type and price range.

• Ah Cacao Chocolate Café A chocolate-themed coffee shop, selling chocolate in all its forms (including pure cacao beans). Famous for the brownies. Probably serves the best lattes and espresso in Playa. 5ta Ave. with Constituyentes. http://www.ahcacao.com

• Babes Noodles and Bar Very popular restaurant bar serving thai-style noodles, loud music, and lots of beer. Two locations: Calle 10 between 5th and 10th, and 5th Ave. between calle 26 and 28.

• HC would have been impossible to find without a recommendation. This butcher/restaurant is situated on Calle 2 around Avenida 25, well off the tourist strip of the Quinta Avenida. The arracera nacional is so tender it almost melts in your mouth. The meat is served simply with a foil wrapped potato and half of an avocado. If you are looking for something a little different, but truly delicious, try HC. With prices around 80 pesos a person, make sure to get there early, they are open until only 8pm.

• La Cueva del Chango Contempory mexican cuisine in an offbeat 'jungle garden' setting. A refreshing change from the frenetic pace of the 5th Avenue restaurantes. Calle 38, between 5th Ave. and the beach.

• Oasis Mexican seafood. Battered shrimp tacos, seafood soup, fried fish. Attracts mostly Mexicans and Playa locals. Prices are reasonable and the quality is consistent.

Octopus Tacos at the PlayaMaya hotel on the beach. Wonderful.

Perros Calientes (hot dogs) If you wanna eat a great(great is big) hot dog, you have to walk two streets from the fifth avenue and you will enjoy so good hot dogs.

There are also various pizza stands with prices ranging from 10 pesos to 20 pesos, most of them remain open up to 6am when bars begin to close..

Drink

Travellers will have no problem finding nice bars on the beach, alternatively if you are on a very tight budget many shops outside the main tourist area will sell drinks in bottles and cans that you can take onto the beach, though that is technically illegal, many in the policia do not stop it. Prices at the bars in Playa are consistent with any major tourist area, but a $1 beer is not uncommon.

Liquor can be bought from any number of tourist shops, which typically sell Kahlua and a variety of tequilas at a price which is generally the same. If you are requiring a more diverse liquor supply, there are places in and about Playa that can accommodate. The most prominent is Covi Liquors, located Hwy. 307 in Playa, which offer a wide variety of liquors at prices that are generally cheaper than those shops which cater to tourists on 5th Ave.

Sleep

Playa del Carmen has a variety of accomodations available. Unlike other beach destinations, all the "best" hotels are not on the beach. A few face the ocean but the majority are set back a block or two near 5th Ave. Posada Barrio Latino is a quiet mid-range option with hammocks for lounging outside each room (and two very friendly pups who run to greet you) and Mosquito Blue is a gorgeously styled upper-range option with meandering pools, a reading library and old world charm to spare.

There are some inexpensive backpacker style hostels in Playa del Carmen if you are on a budget and don't mind sharing a dorm room with other travellers this is a good option. Hostel Playa is the best of the lot with comfy beds and big kitchen. You may also choose to stay at a condominium/apartment which are reasonably priced and available in the heart of the town and near the beaches.

There is only one all inclusive resort in Playa, the rest are south of town in Playacar. The resorts are generally secluded, and prevent one from experiencing the sights, sounds, and tastes of the city, and to some extent Mexican culture as well, since you will be surrounded by Western tourists and amenities. That said, these hotels typically offer nice accommodations that are well served.

• Posada d' Margo A very nice small hotel very near the sea and the Fifth Avenue, economic prices, clean and familiar atmosphere. http://www.posadadmargo.com

• Luna Blue Hotel & Garden An 18 room hotel surrounded by a lush garden in the northern, more quiet part of Playa del Carmen--Calle 26 between 5th Avenue and 10th Avenue. American owned and operated with the feel of a bed and breakfast, this is rated Playa's most popular small hotel on triadvisor.com. http://www.lunabluehotel.com

Get out

There are two competing companies that will ship you across to Cozumel for around $10. The dock is on the south end of the city, just south of the plaza. Boats leave roughly every hour, from 8Am to 8PM, and the ride itself is 30 minutes.

The central bus station, right next to the taxi street, sells rides to the entirety of the Yucatan peninsula. Bus travel is relatively inexpensive, you can either travel second class, or first class, which is sometimes also called 'Express' although it is not notably any faster at all. First class buses cost around 40% more and will have toilets and TVs on them, but both classes have air conditioning. A second class ticket to Chetumal on the Belizean border costs $116 Mexican Pesos ($11 USD) and takes around 4 1/2 hours.

• Tulum is a Pre-Columbian walled city of the Maya right on the ocean, the number one attraction when visiting the region, the ruins consist of a large temple, several auxiliary buildings and huts. Many tours frequent the ruins so it is often busy, you can shop at several different vendor sites on your way in our out and it is recommended you use the washrooms near where the buses load. There are several other impressive Mayan ruins within a few hours drive of Playa. Among them are Ek Balam, Coba, and Chichen Itza.